American Beer Dinner at Ensemble Tap

Ensemble Tap’s bier pairing dinner for July featured 4 American biers thanks to Beerthirst, paired with some fantastic culinary creations from executive chef Brad Hendrickson.

The first bier served was Elysian Avatar Jasmine IPA, a 6.3% IPA flavoured with jasmine flowers, from Seattle’s Elysian Brewing Co.

Elysian Avatar Jasmine IPA

 

The accompanying dish was a Dungeness Crab Salad with cantaloupe, zucchini, lime and jasmine cream.

Dungeness Crab Salad

 

The bier is a relatively clear amber with a small pale head. The aroma is jasmine, candi sugar and apricot. It is reasonably well balanced on the palate, with some sweetness and a light bitterness. The flavour is heavy on the jasmine, with hints of summer fruits – peach, apricot, melon. Overall it was surprisingly tasty and refreshing.

The crab salad was quite tasty and slightly sweet with a some great flavour coming from the slice of cantaloupe (which looked a bit like a Kraft Single) and a bit of a sweet floral taste from the jasmine. These elements complimented the floral notes of the bier to make a great pairing.

The next bier was Green Flash Le Freak from San Diego based Green Flash Brewing Company. This is a 9.2% Belgian Tripel/Imperial IPA cross.

Green Flash Le Freak Ale

 

The accompanying dish was Roasted Potato Gnocchi with smoked pork belly, mushrooms, and tomato concasse.

Roasted Potato Gnocchi with Pork Belly

 

The bier pours a clear orange with a sizeable pale head that leaves a lot of lacing, and has noticeable carbonation. The aroma is orange marmalade, coriander and a hint of grapefruit. It has a creamy mouthfeel with a background sweetness and a hoppy finish. The taste is apricot, grapefruit and touch of pine. Green Flash manage to successfully combine the elements of a Belgian Tripel with an IIPA, which is quite an achievement. Overall the bier was enjoyable but I found the bitterness grew to be almost overwhelming by the end of the glass.

The gnocchi with pork belly was absolutely divine – roasted pork belly and potato is always a winning combo, extra points for mushrooms as well. The earthiness, roastiness and meatiness of the dish brought out the citrus elements of the bier and mellowed the hops a little to make a pretty decent pairing.

Beer number 3 was Bear Republic Racer 5, a 7% IPA from Californian brewery Bear Republic Brewing Company.

Bear Republic Racer 5 IPA

 

The accompanying dish was Fraser Valley Braised Pork Cheeks with crispy tofu, ginger confit, pork-dashi broth, and green onion.

Braised Pork Cheeks

 

The beer is a slightly hazy pale amber with a small pale head. The aroma is quite hoppy –  spruce, pine and some citrus. The taste is pine and grapefruit with a little candy. I’m not a big fan of the hops that were used in this one (Chinook, Cascade, Columbus and Centennial), finding them a little too in your face with the pine and citrus. There didn’t appear to be a lot of substance behind the hops.

The Braised Pork Cheeks were tasty with a lot of umami flavours. Pairing wise I couldn’t really detect much harmony happening, so this ended up being my least favourite pairing of the evening.

The final bier was Alameda Yellow Wolf Imperial IPA from Portland’s Alameda Brewhouse, clocking in at 8.2% ABV.

Alameda Yellow Wolf Imperial IPA

 

The dessert was a Lemon Mousse with fresh raspberries, candied lemon zest, and lemon-schezuan pepper cake.

Lemon Mousse

 

The bier is a cloudy dark orange with a tiny pale head. The aroma is passionfruit and a touch of pine. It was somewhat subdued on the palate with a short finish and some lingering bitterness. The taste is passionfruit, grapefruit, pine and lemon peel.

The dessert had a delicious tartness from lemon and raspberry – I absolutely loved it. Pairing wise it toned down the pine of the hops which made the beer more enjoyable. However, I found the lemony tartness of the dish so appealing I ended up abandoning the bier to just enjoy the dish by itself.

To summarize, this bier pairing dinner was very well done, with some outstanding dishes that, for the better part, paired well with the biers. The only exception was the Braised Pork Cheeks with the Bear Republic Racer 5. For some reason this pairing just didn’t click for me, although I should say that I did thoroughly enjoy the dish. I think the most harmonious pairing was probably the Elysian Avatar Jasmine IPA with the Dungeness Crab Salad.

Russell Beer Pairing Dinner at Ensemble Tap

Ensemble Tap’s bier pairing dinner for June was with Russell Brewing, and featured 4 tasty dishes created specially to pair with 4 different Russel beers.

The first bier served was Russell Honey Blonde Ale, a 5% ABV blonde ale that’s part of Russell’s “Session Series”.

Russell Honey Blonde Ale

The accompanying dish was a Strawberry and Mozzarella Salad with sumac, mesclun mix, parsley and celery hearts.

Strawberry and Mozzarella Salad

The bier is a pale clear yellow with a pale head. The aroma is honey and citrus. It is relatively light on the palate, is medium bodied, and has a subtle bitterness on the finish. The flavours are grain and citrus peel. Overall a light and refreshing bier.

The citrus of the salad, as well as the slight tartness of the strawberries paired well with the citrus elements of the beer to create an overall crisp and refreshing first course. The meat and cheese from the salad also further brought out the crisp elements of the beer.

The next bier was Russell Main Street Pilsner, a 5% ABV pilsner.

Russell Main Street Pilsner

The accompanying dish was a Thai Sausage with glass noodles, daikon, pea shoots and carrot.

Thai Sausage

The pilsner, poured from a can, is a very pale yellow with very little head. The aroma is creamed corn and wet straw. It has a very light body, is almost non-existent on the palate and has a short finish. The flavours are corn bread and citrus peel. I’m generally not much of a fan of pilsners and hence found this bier somewhat uninteresting.

The thai sausage was absolutely delicious, and there was some fantastic lemonyness in the noodles. Unfortunately for me this didn’t really bring anything out of the beer, which being a pilsner does not have much depth of character. The citrus of the dish helped give the illusion that the beer had some citrus character but I feel all the flavour really just came from the dish.

The third bier was Russell A Wee Angry Scotch Ale, a 6.5% ABV bier crafted in the style of a 19th century 90 shilling Scotch Ale.

Russell A Wee Angry Scotch Ale

This bier was accompanied by a filet of Halibut, with brown butter hollandaise, almonds and broccoli.

Halibut

The scotch ale pours a translucent reddish brown with a reasonable pale head. The aroma is wet hay, burnt sugar and malt. It is roasty on the palate, with a bitter roast finish. The flavours are caramel, burnt toast, coffee dregs and a touch of hazelnut.

The Halibut was a very buttery dish – almost overwhelmingly so. It was very tasty but quite rich and heavy. Pairing wise, it smoothed out the roastiness of the beer and gave it a nice butterscotch like character.

The final bier of the evening was Russell IP’eh, a 6.5% ABV English-style IPA.

Russell IP’eh

This accompanied the dessert course, which was To Die For Banana Bread, with thyme, ice cream and Dulce Leche.

To Die For Banana Bread

The IPA pours a clear rusty amber with a good sized pale head and vigorous carbonation. The aroma is freshly cut grass, pine and passionfruit. It is relatively light on the palate and has a bitter hoppy finish. The taste is pine, spruce, a hint of caramel and toffee. I’m somewhat surprised they call this an English-style IPA when it is so obviously hopped with American Cascade hops, which makes it much like a typical Pacific Northwest IPA.

The banana bread was very tasty (although it was still partly frozen when served). I found it kind of strange that a rich dessert like this would be served with an IPA, and I feel it did not pair well – if anything it emphasized the hoppiness of the beer and made it harder to drink.

To summarize, I found this was another Ensemble Tap dinner where the food excelled and the bier didn’t quite live up to its side of the pairing bargain. The pairing I feel worked the best was the first one, where the citrus elements from the Strawberry and Mozzarella Salad complimented the citrusy notes of the Russell Honey Blonde Ale, with the other elements of the salad playing a good supporting role.

Sisters of the Tap

I only managed to get to one Vancouver Craft Beer Week event this year, and that was “Sisters of the Tap”. This was a celebration of the leading ladies in the local craft beer scene, and was held at Ensemble Tap.

Each of the ladies involved gave a bit of a talk about their biers, but unfortunately the sound system didn’t allow anyone seated upstairs to hear a single word. Luckily some of the ladies visited our table during the evening for a brief chat.

The evening started with a glass of Saltspring Island Elderflower Golden Ale.

Saltspring Island Elderflower Golden Ale

This bier was served from a cask, and poured a cloudy orange with no head. The aroma was passionfruit with touch of pine. It had a medium body, no carbonation, and a somewhat piney finish. The flavours were wheat, passionfruit and spruce.

Next up was the Townsite Zunga Golden Blonde Ale.

Townsite Zunga Golden Blonde Ale

The was accompanied by some local artisan cheese capapés.

Cheese Canapé 2 Cheese Canapé 1

The Townsite Zunga Golden Blonde Ale was a clear pale gold colour with a small pale head. The aroma was walnut, caramel, damp laundry. It was light on the palate with a nutty aftertaste and a hint of bitterness. The flavours are bread and walnut.

The canapés were a good accompaniment, the goats cheese and walnut was especially tasty and complimented the bier.

The next bier was the Howe Sound 4 Way Fruit Ale.

Howe Sound 4 Way Fruit Ale

This was paired with a Dungeness Crab roll.

Dungeness Crab

The Howe Sound 4 Way Fruit Ale is a cloudy orange with virtually no head. The aroma is nice and fruity – passionfruit, peach, apricot, hint of fresh grass and mint. It has a crisp mouthfeel, sweet on the palate, and a good body contributed by the wheat which gives it some depth and citrus tang in the finish. The flavours that came to mind for me were are peach, apricot, passionfruit, coriander, mandarin (although the actual fruits used were passionfruit, mango, raspberries and pomegranates). It is a great summer bier, tasty and refreshing while still having some character.

The Dungeness Crab was in a daikon roll with Mexican spice and accompanied by a mango pureé and corn salsa. This was delicious and paired excellently with the fruit character of the bier.

The next bier was Big River Vienna Lager.

Big River Vienna Lager

This was paired with Slow Baked BC Halibut.

Slow Baked BC Halibut

The Big River Vienna Lager pours a clear amber with a small pale head. The aroma is wet grass, grain and honey. It has a crisp lager taste, is well balanced and has a slightly malty finish. The flavours are caramel and malt. This was a quite enjoyable bier.

The Slow Baked Halibut was served on a bed of English peas, pearl onions, tarragon, pea shoots and fresh horse radish. The fish was tender and had quite a subtle flavour, most of the flavour of this dish coming from the supporting greens. It seemed to pair well with the Vienna lager.

Next up was the Spinnakers Hoptoria.

Spinnakers Hoptoria

This was paired with a Braised Beef Shin.

Braised Beef Shin

The Spinnakers Hoptoria pours a clear amber with a minimal pale head. The aroma is fresh hops and hint of caramel. It is very hoppy on the palate with a hint of toffee in the background, and a bitter finish. The flavours are toffee, spruce and camomile. I found this bier a little too hoppy for my liking and a little one dimensional.

The beef shin was served with smoked tomato, pomme pureé and green asparagus. This was a truly excellent dish but I struggled to gain anything from the bier pairing. I’d love to try this dish with a smoky brown ale or porter rather than a hop-centric bier.

The next bier was the Crannog Back Hand of God Stout.

Crannog Back Hand of God Stout

This was served along with a nice selection of chocolates from Urge Chocolates.

Urge Chocolates

The Crannog Back Hand of God Stout was a great beer for dessert. It pours black with a small pale head. The aroma is burnt straw, liquorice, vanilla and hint of coffee. It has a medium body, and is slight smoky with a roasty finish. The flavours are coffee, toast, dark chocolate and a hint of liquorice.

The 3 types of chocolate provided – salted caramel chocolate, 55% cocoa nibs, and black pepper chocolate – were all very tasty. What blew me away here was the pairing of the black pepper chocolate with the stout. This was definitely the best pairing of the night and a real eye-opener for me. The sweet chocolate combined with the spiciness of the pepper brought out characters of the stout that you wouldn’t otherwise notice.

Finally to wrap up the evening was a glass of R&B Orange ESB.

R&B Brewing Orange ESB

This bier pours a cloudy orange with a small pale head. The aroma is orange, passionfruit, and apricot. It is somewhat thin on the palate with a bitter citrusy finish. The flavours are orange, grapefruit and spruce. I was a little disappointed with this as a closer, and it seemed a little strange for this to follow a complex stout.

Overall this was a great night with some good biers and fantastic dishes which generally paired well. Kudos to the lovely ladies that were involved in the making of these brews and it was great to have the chance to meet some of them. One thing that would have made it better for me would have been if there was an information sheet that gave a little background on the night’s biers and the “Sisters of the tap” that were involved, especially since it was easy to miss the speeches.

Phillips bier pairing dinner at Ensemble Tap

Ensemble Tap’s bier pairing dinner for April was with Phillips Brewing, with 4 new dishes design b y the Ensemble Tap chefs specifically to pair with 4 Phillips biers.

The first bier served was Phillips Slipstream Cream Ale.

Phillips Slipstream Cream Ale

The accompanying dish was a Potato Consommé with white cheddar potato dumplings & leeks.

Potato consommé

The bier is clear brown with a small pale head. The aroma is caramel, maple, brown sugar. It has a slightly creamy mouthfeel, somewhat thin palate, well carbonated, malty with a hint of bitterness in the aftertaste. The flavours are burnt sugar and malt. This bier doesn’t have a lot of character.

The potato consommé was tasty, and had some good savoury & umami elements.

Pairing wise, what flavour the beer does have is mostly lost to the lingering flavour of the food. The food mellowed out the bitterness in the bier’s aftertaste but the bier doesn’t really show up any new character, pretty much seeming like a mellow and vaguely malty brew.

The second bier of the evening was Phillips Hoperation Triple Cross IPA, which is described as a Belgian IPA.

Phillips Hoperation Triple Cross Belgian IPA

The accompanying dish was Crispy Sweet Breads with roasted cauliflower, parsley and sauce gribiche.

Crispy sweet breads

The bier is golden with a small pale head. The aroma is apricot, caramel, citrus and a hint of fresh cut grass. The taste is orange marmalade, peach, pine. It is reasonably thin on the palate with a crisp bitter hoppy finish. I feel the hops dominate a little too much – there isn’t much of a Belgian character to back it up. I can detect some subtle aspects of a Belgian Tripel but they are too low-key.

The crispy sweet breads dish had a good range of flavours and it was an enjoyable dish. The gribiche was the highlight, providing a tasty tang.

Pairing wise, the food mellows the bitterness a little and brings the other aspects of the hops, forward, with a little background fruitiness.

The third bier of the evening was Phillips Amnesiac Double IPA, whose description reads “Mind blowing amounts of hops give this beer tons of flavour and aroma”.

Phillips Amnesiac Double IPA

This was paired with Braised Pork Cheeks with roasted apples, celeriac noodles, apple cider gastric.

Braised pork cheeks

The bier is a clear amber with a decent pale head that leaves behind some nice lacing. The aroma is heavy on the hops – pine, spruce. It has a slightly creamy mouthfeel and lots of hops on the palate. The taste is pine, spruce, pineapple, grass.

The food had a mouth-watering aroma. The pork was extremely tender – fell apart on the fork – sweet and tasty with good caramelization. The roasted apples and celeriac noodles accompanied the pork nicely.

The pairing was quite good – the sweet and tart elements of the food mellowed out the bitterness of the hops.

The forth bier of the evening was Phillips Ginger Beer.

Phillips Ginger Beer

The Ginger Beer was paired with a dessert of Panna Cotta with apricot purée, candied ginger, ginger beer marinated apricots.

Panna Cotta

The Ginger Beer is a clear pale amber with a small pale head. The aroma is all ginger. It is light on the palate with some ginger bite, especially at the back of the throat. The taste is ginger with a slight mineral/vegetal aftertaste. A little harsh but that’s kind of normal for ginger beer.

The Panna Cotta looked a little like boiled eggs (in fact out waitress joked that she was serving us “deconstructed devilled eggs”). It turned out to be very tasty though. There was a good apricot zing with a slight ginger tang and a good amount of sweetness.

This was probably the best pairing of the evening, with a good zing from both the beer and the food.

After the dinner, Phillips provided a bonus bier - Phillips Double-barrel Scotch Ale. This is a scotch ale that has been aged in Bourbon barrels and the Cabernet Sauvignon barrels.

Phillips Double-barrel Scotch Ale

This pours a clear rusty brown with a small pale head. The aroma is caramel, wood, toffee. It is a little thin on the palate with a short, slightly dry finish. Taste is toffee, wood.

The Phillips guy mentioned that this years is a little different to last years – in my opinion this is a change for the worse. This year’s has a lot less character, missing any of the nice maltiness or complexity that was present previously.

To summarize, for me this pairing dinner was more about the food than the bier. With perhaps the exception of the Ginger Beer, the biers seemed more aimed towards casual session drinking than being the kind of biers that you’d choose to have with a good meal. The chefs did a good job of trying to match the foods to the biers, but I feel that the biers didn’t really bring much to the table.

Howe Sound and Ensemble Tap Bier-Paired Dinner

Ensemble Tap have started doing a monthly bier-paired dinner featuring some fantastic dishes specifically created to pair with biers from a featured local brewery. The dinner in March was with Howe Sound Brewery.

The first dish served was Citrus Poached Prawns, with Daikon Radish, Carrot, Pea Shoots, Asian Dressing.

First Course

The accompanying bier was Howe Sound Whitecap Wheat Ale.

Whitecap Wheat Ale

The bier was pale yellow/amber with a slight haze and a good pale head. Aroma was peach, wheat, citrus, cream. Light on the palate, short finish with a nice crispness. Taste is citrus peel, wheat. Nice crisp and tangy beer that makes a good nod to the Belgian wit beers that inspired it.

The dish had a fantastic citrus burst to it that complimented both the prawns and the bier.  In fact every taste element of the dish paired well with flavours from the beer.

The second dish was Sweet and Sour Eggplant, with Tomato Leafs, Ras el Hanout Rita, Cilantro and Mint.

Second Course

This was accompanied by Howe Sound Total Eclipse of the Hop.

Total Eclipse of the Hop

The bier is cloudy rusty amber with a reasonable pale head that leaves behind a slight lacing. Aroma is northwest hops, fresh cut grass, touch of pine and a hint of caramel, good overall floral note. Good body, reasonable balance between malt and hoppy bitterness – the hops are not an overwhelming sock in the mouth with pine and spruce, whilst still being noticeable and finishing with a crisp bitterness. Taste is quince, grapefruit, caramel, malt and pine. One of the best IIPA’s I have tried.

Fairly good pairing, the food was fairly sweet which complimented the maltiness of the bier, but brought out the bitterness a little too much for my liking.

The third course was the best of the night - Braised Lamb Stew with Pearl Onions, Mushrooms, Lardons, Puff Pastry.

Third Course

This was accompanied by Howe Sound Diamond Head Oatmeal Stout.

Diamond Head Imperial Stout

The bier is solid black with a good sized beige head that leaves behind a nice lacing. Aroma is mushroom, wet straw, grain. Creamy mouthfeel, good body, very well balanced, smooth finish. Taste is smoke, licorice, soy sauce, oatmeal. A very enjoyable beer.

The lamb stew was simply amazing – one of the tastiest dishes I have had! It paired extremely well with the bier, bringing the oatmeal to the front.

The final course, dessert, was Rum Baba.

Fourth Course

To bier with dessert was Howe Sound Baldwin and Cooper Best Bitter.

Baldwin & Cooper Best Bitter

This bier is a clear copper with a small pale head. Aroma is honey, raisin, plum, date, toffee, grape. reasonably light on the palate, well balanced with a bitter finish. Taste is raisin, date, caramel and burnt toast.

The dessert was delicious and sweet, which managed to mellow out the bitter finish of the bier and bring out more of the bier’s the fruitiness.

Summary: An excellent evening which showcased some great biers from Howe Sound, paired perfectly with some amazing dishes from Ensemble Tap chefs Brad Hendrickson and  Dale MacKay.